THE 


iADY’S KNITTING-BOOK. 


TT 820 
. C787 
Copy 1 


n 


BY 




IE. O-, 


AUTHOR OF “THE LADY’S CROCHET-BOOK.’’ 


CONTAINING EIGHTY EASY PATTERNS OF USEFUL AND 

ORNAMENTAL WORK. 




i 


'jvo,... (sa.2J.JL 

Jty -1879. ^ 

NEW YORK: 

ANSON D. F. RANDOLPH & COMPANY, 

900 BROADWAY, COR. 20tll STREET. 

Til'll- 


fly 





* 


Copyright, 1879, by 
Anson D. F. Randolph & Company 


7 1 t > 

* • 

1 

NEW YORK! 

Edward O. Jenkins, Printer, 

20 North William St, 


PAGE 

ANTIMACASSAK.37 

“ Persian ... 38 

“ Lattice Pattern 52 

Arrow Pattern in Stripes . . 50 
Baby’s Boot, Isabel Pattern . 23 

“ “ verj T easy pattern 27 

“ Berceannette Cover . 40 
“ Qnilt, very pretty . . 41 

“ Hood.60 


Bodice.57 

Border.48 

Brioche Knitting.51 

Cable Knitting ...... 50 

Canadian Cloud.47 

Carriage Kng.38 

Child’s Gaiter.59 

Comforters ....... 28 

Counterpane Border . . . 

“ Maltese Pattern 
Couvrette, or Couvre.pied . 

Double Knitting.27 

“ with Four Needles 28 


49 

46 


o-* 

04 


44 


Explanations 


11 


PAGE 

Fancy Stitches.50, 

Alice Pattern. 

Bean Pattern. 

Diamond Pattern .... 

Gate Pattern. 

Leaf Pattern ...... 

Mignon Pattern. 

Net Pattern. 

Nice Pattern. 

Pearl Pattern ...... 

Pretty Pattern. 

Rain Pattern. 

Small Honeycomb Pattern . 
Telegraph Pattern .... 

Fringe in Cotton. 

“ Wool. 

Geueral Remarks.13 

Gentleman’s Waistcoat (me¬ 
dium size) . 30 
“ Waistcoat (larger 

or smaller) . 30 

Hearth-Rug.41 

Heel of a Stocking or Sock , 14 
(vii) 


*5 <© co •-+< ~Y ro rH co rH cq '-O Cl co 
»o io »o io »A o to o »o -r -r 


































vin 


Knee-Cap . 

PAGE 

Lady’s Winter Petticoat. . 

. 43 

Lattice Pattern . 

. 52 

Loop Knitting . 

. 42 

Muffatee, Ermine .... 

. 31 

“ Lady’s .... 

. 31 

Night or Carriage Sock . . 

. 29 

Pence Jug, Etruscan shape 

tS 

CO 

• 

“ iong shape .... 


“ on two needles . . 

. 36 

Purse . 

31, 32 

Quilt . 

. 41 

“ in cotton, a common one 45 

Raised Plait-knitting . . . 

. 38 

Remarks on Socks and Stock- 

ings . 


Rose-bud Pattern Border . 

. 48 

Round Sofa Cushion . . . 

. 44 

Scollop . 

. 51 

Shetland Shawl . 

. 34 

Silk Stocking, Lad}^ . . . 

. 18 

“ “ striped 

. 16 

“ “ white evening 16 

“ “winter . 

. 18 


PAGE 

Silk Stocking, Gentleman’s . 17 
Sock for Boy of Twelve ... 20 
“ “ another pattern . 20 

“ “ of Fifteen ... 21 

“ for a Child of Two ... 18 
“ Pattern for tops of . . 55 


Sleeping.29 

easy.20 


“ Gentleman’s evening silk, 

(average size) 17 

“ “ (large size) . 22 

“ “ ribbed (small 

size)... 22 

Stockings and Socks .... 14 

Stocking, Gentleman’s Knick¬ 
erbocker .... 19 

“ Silk.17 

“ fora Girl of Fourteen 21 

“ for a Boy or Girl of 

Eight.22 

To Decrease for the Toe, etc. . 15 
“ for Instep ... 15 
Vest, or Jersey, Lady’s ... 32 
Waistcoat.30 






















INTRODUCTION. 


In sending this little work before the public, I have tried 
to remedy one fault which I have often heard complained 
of, namely, that knitting-books generally give so many more 
stitches than are really required. This is partly owing to 
the different qualities of wool used by different knitters, 
and partly also, to a certain extent, whether the worker 
knits loosely or tightly. The following directions are for 
medium knitters. As knitting sometimes shrinks in the 
washing, I should advise my readers to try and knit moder¬ 
ately loose. But, of course, the principal thing is to have 
the same sized wool or silk as that for which the directions 
are given; and this is especially important in socks and 
stockings. I will therefore state that merino is the thick¬ 
est and most harsh kind of yarn made; Saxony is a trifle less 
coarse. Saxony is the usual yarn sold for socks and gentle¬ 
men’s stockings: it ought to be very strong, and to appear 
about the same size as Berlin. If it looks finer (and some 
does) put on more stitches than are given. For couvrettes 
and things of that kind, the size of the wool and knitting- 
needles is, of course, a matter of less importance, as it does 
not signify whether the work is a trifle larger or smaller 



X 


Introduction. 


K 


than intended; but in stockings, a slight thing makes a 
good deal of difference in the fit. 

The standard of measurement for the knitting-needles is 
Chamber’s Bell Gauge. 

I have also endeavored to explain everything at full 
length, so as to enable inexperienced knitters to find out 
the patterns by themselves. 

In teaching knitting, I would strongly recommend that 
the German way of holding the needles be used. It may 
not look so pretty, but it is so much quicker when once 
learned, although people who knit in English fashion will 
not find it a good plan to alter from their customary way. 

Useful things for children to learn on are—bath-towels, 
floor-cloths, and dish-cloths; use Dexter’s knitting cotton, 
and No. 14 knitting-needles. Knit backwards and for¬ 
wards on 30 stitches for half a yard, and sew 3 strips 
together. For floor-cloths use coarser cotton. When the 
plain knitting is mastered, teach pearling in the same way; 
and it is a good plan to let them learn darning on these 
pieces. E. M. C. 


EXPLANATIONS. 


‘To purl or pearl’ and ‘to seam' mean the same thing-; that 
is, to put the wool round the right - hand needle. Thus: the 
wool hangs straight down, it must be lifted and placed round the 
needle from right to left. You must then insert the right-hand 
needle into the stitch, exactly the opposite way as in ordinary 
knitting. 

‘To decrease’ is simply to knit two stitches together. An¬ 
other way is to slip a stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch 
over it. 

* To take two together,’ means to knit two together. 

‘To increase,’ you must knit both into the lower part of the 
stitch, and also into the stitch itself. 

‘ To raise a stitch ’ is the same as to increase. 




13 


General Remarks on Socks a7id Stockings. 

As regards open-work stockings, no especial patterns are 
given, for most of the fancy stitches are suitable for the purpose. 
The only thing to be remarked is, that attention must be paid 
where the decreasings come, that you make the reduction in the 
pattern so as not to throw the other part wrong. Suppose the 
pattern takes 9 stitches, you will have to recollect that the first 
and last set can not be entirely worked ; a portion must be omit¬ 
ted, and this must not interfere with the correct working of the 
remainder. 

For a lady’s stocking it is best to decrease once and increase 
three times for the calf of the leg. For a gentleman’s this is 
unnecessary. Most of these directions are for ribbed stockings, 
as they fit so much better; but if preferred plain, of course the 
same number of stitches is required. 

You must always remember in ribbed stockings to carry on 
the ribs and seam-stitches all down the back of the heel, until 
you begin to round it. The ribs on the front of the foot must be 
continued straight on, until within an inch of the decreasing for 
the toe. 

The seam-stitch is made by knitting a certain stitch in two 
rounds and pearling it in the third. 

Before decreasing for the instep, do two or three plain rounds 
and then begin. 

The ‘flap,’ or heel before it is rounded, ought to be three 
inches, or even more, as a long heel wears better. It also makes 
it much stronger to knit it double with Angora wool, of the same 
color as the knitting. 

Except for young boys, socks fit quite well without being 


14 


decreased at all for the ankle; therefore, I only give one pattern 
on the decreasing principle. 

With silk stockings the size of knitting-needles is important. 

Rough woolen stockings have an improved appearance if they 
be damped, folded into a good shape, and put under a linen 
press. This process gives them a flat, even appearance, like 
those in shops. 

Heel of a Stocking or Sock. 

To inexperienced knitters the heel seems to present mount¬ 
ains of difficulty, but in reality the mountain is but a mole-hill 
after all. The following pattern is one of the best. 

Divide your stitches. We will say you have 50 altogether 
on three needles ; take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch, and 
knit these 25 backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds 
(making the seam-stitch all the same); you must pearl back¬ 
wards so as to keep the knitting even. Continue until you have 
made a flap about three inches long, always slipping the first 
knitted stitch. Now knit, from the right-hand side, the 12 
stitches; then the seam-stitch, which from this time forward you 
cease to make. Knit 4 stitches beyond it; knit 2 together; 
knit 1 ; turn, pearl until you get to 4 beyond the seam - stitch, 
pearl 2 together, pearl 1, turn. Knit until you come to the 
stitch in the previous row where you turned — you may know it 
easily by the little hole which was formed by the turning; you 
now knit 2 together and knit one more stitch, then turn. Pearl 
the next row, of course always pearling 2 together where the 
little hole has been left, and so on until you have gradually 
worked off the stitches. You then pick up the side-stitches of 
this flap and the heel is finished. 


i5 


To Decrease for the Toe of a Sock or Stocking. 

Put half your stitches on one needle, a quarter on the second, 
and a quarter on the third needle. Thus: suppose you have 60 
stitches, you must have 30 on one side and 15 on the other two. 
The 30 must be the front or ribbed part, the two knitting-needles 
with 15 stitches on them ought to be the sole part. In doubling 
your knitting now, the front part ought to lie evenly on the sole 
of the foot. Begin to knit the 30 stitches ; knit 27, slip 1, knit 1, 
pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now begin the next needle ; 
knit 1, knit 2 together. ' Continue plain knitting. Now begin 
the 3d needle; knit 12, slip i,knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, 
knit 1. Now you begin again on the 30. Knit 1, knit 2 together. 
Continue plain. Do two rounds plain, and then decrease again 
in the same manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 
stitches between the decreasing, remembering always to do two 
rounds of plain knitting between each decreasing round. 

Repeat for two inches and cast off. 

Some people only do one round between the decreasing; this 
plan makes the toe rounder and more puckered. 

Decreasing for Instep. 

On the right-hand side of the heel, just where the ribs leave 
off, you slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over; continue 
plain knitting; and where the ribs begin again you knit 2 
together. You must remember that on the right side of the 
heel you slip, and on the left that you knit 2 together. 


16 


Lady^s Striped Silk Stocking. 

(medium size). 

2 oz. black and 3 oz. rose-colored Imperial knitting-silk. 
Needles, No. 16. 

Put on 128 stitches in black, do 12 rounds of 2 plain, 2 
pearl. Now make the first stitch the seam-stitch, and do plain 
knitting until four inches are done, making the stripes come quite 
evenly, one inch broad. When you have once joined the rose- 
colored, let the black thread hang down inside the seam-stitch ; 
do not break off every time you change color, which must 
always take place at the seam-stitch. Now do 3 plain and 1 
pearl alternately. When 5 y 2 inches are done decrease on each 
side of the seam - stitch. Do * 7 more rows and increase. 
Repeat from * twice more. When 12 inches are done decrease 
for the ankle every five rows until you have 92 stitches. Knit 
until the stocking is 20 inches long, and then divide for the heel. 
Proceed as on page 14; pick up the side-stitches, and decrease 
over the instep until you have 90 stitches; the front ribs must 
be carried on evenly, but the sole is left plain. When the foot 
is 7 inches long discontinue ribbing. Knit 9 rounds plain, and 
then decrease (see page 15). The foot must be 9X inches long. 
Take off and sew up carefully on the wrong side. 

Lady s White Silk Evening Stocking. 

Proceed as in the former pattern, with 140 stitches, in the 
finest kind of silk, and needles No. 17. Plain silk stockings are 
the easiest to knit, but when finished the striped ones are very 
pretty, especially when worn to match the dress with low shoes. 


*7 


Gentleman s Evening Silk Sock. 

(average size). 

Needles, No. 15. Put on 108 stitches. Rib by doing 1 plain, 
1 pearl. When 3 inches are done, do 3 plain and 1 pearl for 8 *4 
inches. Turn the heel as on page 14. Decrease at the instep 
to 96. Carry on the ribs in the front part, but let the sole be 
plain ; when 8 inches are done leave off ribbing and do 8 plain 
rounds. Decrease as on page 15, and when the foot is 10 
inches long, cast off and sew up. With very fine silk, use 
needles No. 16 or 17, and 130 stitches. 

Gentleman s Silk Stocking. 

The following pattern is in stripes of black and blue, but it 
will do equally well plain. 2 oz. blue and 2 oz. black Imperial 
knitting-silk. Needles, No. 17. If coarser silk is used, knit with 
needles No. 16, and cast on 128. 

Cast on 138 stitches in black, and proceed exactly the same 
as with Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stocking, page 19. Meas¬ 
ure an inch of each colored knitting alternately; it is better 
to measure than to count the rows, as silk is apt to be unequal. 
The ankle ought to be 100 stitches. Knit a flap 3 inches long 
for the heel, turn it, pick up the side-stitches, and decrease at 
the instep to 98. After the first joining of the black and blue, 
pass the color you are not using at the back; always change 
the color at the seam-stitch ; in that way you need not break 
off the silk when you have finished a stripe, but keep on with 
both balls, so as to join the silk only once. The remainder as 
page 19. 


i8 


Ladys Silk Stocking. 

Knitted with thickest knitting-silk and 4 needles, No. 16. 

Cast on 120, knit a plain round. Knit 2 pearl, 2 plain, for 8 
rounds, and now begin to knit plain, making the first stitch the 
seam-stitch. In this stocking you need not increase for the 
calf, unless you wish to make it a larger size. If you rib the 
stocking, begin when 4 inches of plain knitting are done; knit 
(or pearl) the seam-stitch, * pearl r, knit 3; continue from*. 
When 12 inches are knitted decrease every 5th row until you 
have only 84 stitches on your needles. When the stocking is 
20 inches long divide for the heel, by taking 21 on each side of 
the seam-stitch. Knit the heel as on page 14. Pick up the 
side-stitches, and reduce over the instep to 80. Make the foot 9 
inches long, reducing for the toe as on page 15. 

Lady s Winter Stocking. 

Needles, No. 15. 1 lb. merino makes several pairs. 

Cast on 116 stitches. 

With Berlin fingering-wool only cast on 98, and proceed as 
with Girl’s Stocking, page 21. 

Sock for a Child of Two Years Old. 

In merino yarn, and needles No. 17. 

Cast on 23 on the first needle, 22 on the second, and 20 on the 
third. Knit a plain round, keeping the first stitch as the seam- 
stitch. Do 20 rounds in ribs of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now do plain 
knitting and decrease twice in every fourth round (on each side 


19 


of the seam-stitch) for 12 rounds. Knit 10 rounds. Take 14 on 
each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, knit backwards and 
forwards for 20 rows; turn (see page 14). Take up 10 side- 
stitches, and reduce until you have 56 for the foot. Do 26 rounds, 
decrease, and cast off. 

Gentleman s Knickerbocker Stocking. 

Needles, No. 14, and 7 skeins of best Scotch fingering-yarn. 

This is the largest size, suitable for a gentleman of six feet 
in height. 

Cast on 112, 37 on two needles, and 38 on the third needle. Rib 
for about an inch by doing 1 plain and 1 pearl, remembering to 
have the first stitch on the first needle as the seam-stitch. You 
make this, by working it plain in 2 successive rounds and pearl¬ 
ing it in the next. Then do plain knitting for 4 inches. You 
now begin to rib as follows:—Knit or pearl the seam-stitch, 
knit 3 and pearl 1. Continue to knit 3 and pearl 1 every row 
until I2£ inches are done. Then begin to decrease every 8 
rows. You decrease on the right-hand side of the seam-stitch 
by slipping a stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Work 
the seam-stitch and knit 2 together. If the stitch to be slipped 
happens to be a pearl-stitch, you must not slip it, but merely 
pearl two together on both sides. You will thus decrease 16 
stitches, and now i6i inches ought to be done. Then knit 5 
more inches. You ought now to have 94 stitches for the ankle 
and divide for the heel. Proceed for this as on page 14; but 
as this is a large size, you must make the flap 3! long, always 
slipping the first stitch. When you have turned the heel you 
must take up 21 stitches, and decrease for the instep at first 


20 


every row; and the last 6 decreasings do every other row until 
you have only 86 stitches. When 9 inches of the foot are done 
(measuring the whole of the heel as well), you begin to decrease 
for the toe, which takes up 2 more inches; you then cast off, 
and sew up the toe on the wrong side. When the foot is 8| 
inches long, remember to cease ribbing, as the toe must be all 
plain knitting. 

Sock for a Boy of Twelve . 

(SUITABLE FOR POOR PEOPLE). 

Merino yarn. This yam can only be bought by the lb. 
Needles, 14 or 15. 

Cast on 56, 20 on two needles, and 16 on the third. Knit 3, 
pearl 3, alternately: make a seam-stitch. Rib in this way for 
an inch. Decrease on each side of the seam-stitch. Do 7 more 
rows, decrease again. Rib the sock for about 3 inches, 1 row 
plain, and decrease again. You must now decrease again every 
6 rows, until you have 48 stitches. 

For the heel, take 9 on each side of the seam-stitch, and pearl 
and knit until 3 inches are done. Turn and take up the side- 
stitches. Decrease every row until you have only 38. When 
the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe and cast off. 

Boy s Sock. 

(ANOTHER GOOD PATTERN, VERY EASY). 

Knitted with merino or Saxony yarn. 

Cast on 48, rib in 2 and 2 alternate, plain and pearl stitches. 
Rib 3 inches, and do the rest in plain knitting until 8 inches are 
done. Take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel. 


21 


continue as on page 14. Pick up the side-stitches, decrease for 
the instep until you have 38 stitches, or until the foot measures 
8 inches in breadth ; that is, 4 when doubled. When the foot 
is 8 inches long decrease for the toe. Make the foot altogether 
10 inches long. Take off and sew up. This pattern, which is 
very easy, and without any decreasings at all, fits exactly. 

For a Boy of Fifteen, in Scotch WJieeling-yarn. 

Put on 54. Proceed as in above pattern, without any de¬ 
creasings, until you come to the heel. Divide your stitches, 
knit a flap of 3 inches, turn your heel, reduce for the instep until 
you have 48 stitches. Make the foot 8 inches long, decrease 
until the foot is 10 inches altogether in length. Put off and sew 
up. This wool is so thick and strong, that it is hardly necessary 
to do the heels and toes double with Angora. 

Stocking for a Girl of Fourteen. 

Scotch wheeling-yarn—1 lb.; makes nearly 3 pairs. They 
are very strong and nice for the poor. Needles, 15 or 16. 

Put on 69. Knit 14 rounds, 2 plain, 2 pearl; make the first 
stitch the seam-stitch. Then 50 plain rounds. Decrease on 
each side of the seam-stitch, then do 5 plain rounds. Increase 
3 times with 5 plain rounds between each increasing; do 20 
plain rounds. Decrease with 6 plain rounds between every 
decreasing until you have only 53 stitches. Do 34 plain rounds 
for the ankle. Divide for heel and do the flap, 29 rows. Take 
up 18 stitches on each side. Reduce at the instep until you 
have 52 stitches. Do the foot as in preceding pattern, except 
that this one need only be 9^ inches long. 


22 


For a Boy s or Girl's Stocking ; aboiU Eight Years Old. 

Ribbed. 

In white Saxony yarn. 

Put on 80. Knit 12 rounds, 1 plain and 1 pearl. Plain 
knitting for 4 inches. Rib 1, knit 3, until you have done 66 
rounds. Now decrease on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 
5 rounds and increase in the same way. Do this twice more, 
and you ought now to have 84 stitches. When 11 inches are 
done decrease eveiy 8 rows, and knit plain until the stocking is 
1 6 l /z inches long; then divide for heel. Knit and pearl 32 rows, 
and proceed as on page 14. Pick up 16 side-stitches, and after 
2 rounds keep decreasing every row for the instep until you have 
only 68. Work 7 inches and decrease. The foot ought to be 
inches long. Take off and sew up. 

• 

* 

Gentleman s Sock. 

(LARGE SIZE). 

The same as the following pattern, but put on 94. When 
you have decreased the instep, let the foot be 90. 


Gentleman s Ribbed Sock. 

(small size). 

This also does for a boy from 12 to 14. 

Needles, No. 15. Gray or brown best Saxony, 1 lb. makes 
4 pairs, leaving some over ; 2 lbs. make 9 pairs of socks. 


2 3 


Cast on 80. One plain round ; make the first stitch the seam- 
stitch. Knit in ribs of i plain, i pearl, for 'zyi inches. This is for 
the top part. Now begin to rib m threes; 3 plain stitches, 1 pearl. 
Continue thus until 8 inches are done, and then divide for the 
heel by taking 20 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 
these 21 backwards and forwards, remembering to keep the 
seam-stitch and ribs even ; you must, in coming back, of course 
pearl 3 and knit 1. When 3 inches or 34 rows are done you 
discontinue ribbing, and turn the heel as on page 14. Pick up 
18 stitches from the side, and knit the sole plain, but continue 
the 10 ribs on the 2 front needles. When 2 rounds are done, 
decrease every round until you have only 70 stitches ; then knit 
until the foot is 7^ inches long. You now discontinue ribbing. 
Do 8 rounds plain, and then decrease for the toe as on page 15. 
This takes up 2 more inches, and your sock ought now to be 10 
inches long. Take off and sew up. 


Baby s Boot.—Isabel Pattern . 

(SEE FRONTISPIECE). 

This is a very pretty one indeed. It must be knitted on two 
needles, No. 16: % oz. pink and ^ oz. white Saxony. 

Cast on 50 stitches with the pink. 

First row—knit plain. 

Second row — knit the first 3 stitches; * pearl 2, knit 2. 
Repeat from * until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must 
be knitted. 

Repeat this row twice. 


24 


Fifth row—plain. 

Sixth row—pearl. 

Seventh row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat 
from * ; knit the last stitch. 

Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the 
needle to increase; knit I ; repeat from *. In this way you 
ought to have 50 stitches on your needles. 

Ninth row—knit every stitch. 

Tenth row—pearl every stitch. 

Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 
together until you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted. 

Twelfth row—the same as eighth. 

Thirteenth row—plain knitting. 

Fourteenth row—pearl. 

Now join the white wool. Do 1 plain row, then 9 rows ot 
ribbed knitting, but remember to do 3 plain stitches both at the 
beginning and end of every row. 

Tenth row—plain knitting. 

Eleventh row—pearl. 

Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat 
from * ; knit the last stitch. 

Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the 
needle, knit one ; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 
stitches. 

Fourteenth row—plain knitting. 

Fifteenth row—pearl. 

Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows 
of ornamental holes; * remember that you must never have 
more than 50 stitches. Join the pink wool. 

Sixteenth row — slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 


25 


together; knit 20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; 
knit 1. 

Second row—knit plain. 

Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain 
until you come to the 3d and 2d from the end, which must be 
knitted together. 

Fourth row—plain knitting. 

Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16 ; turn round 
and work on those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the 
needle without working them. Pearl a row. 

Then slip the first stitch,* take 2 together. Repeat from *. 

The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by 
passing the wool over the needle; you ought now to have 16 
stitches. 

Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times. 

You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Take 
off the white, and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. 
Pick up 11 stitches from the side of the white flap, make 11 
stitches. Knit 14 rows. 

Fifteenth row—*, slip the first stitch, take 2 together. This 
ought to be at the toe. The rest plain. 

Sixteenth row—plain knitting. 

Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row 
being plain knitting. 

Eighteenth row—plain. 

Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; take 2 together 
again ; the rest plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the 
end, when you knit 2 together, the last stitch plain. 

Twentieth row—knit plain. 

Twenty-first row —slip the first, knit 2 together; knit 2 


26 


together again; continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, 
when you knit the 5th and 4th together; knit the 3d and 2d 
together, and the last stitch plain. 

Twenty-second row—knit plain. 

Twenty-third row — slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 
together again; plain knitting till the 2d and 3d from the 
end, which you must knit together. 

Twenty-fourth row—plain. 

Twenty-fifth row — slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder 
plain. 

Twenty-sixth row—plain. 

Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain-. 

Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off. 



Pick up 11 stitches of pink at c to form the toe. 

First row — knit plain. Then increase at the toe at the 
beginning of every row until you have 18 stitches. Knit 3 
rows plain. 

Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 
stitches. Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap d, still 
knitting with pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at e. 

Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and 
end at the 28th row. 





27 


Baby s Boot. 

(A VERY EASY PATTERN). 

White Berlin, and needles, No. 13. 

Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock 
may be done in plain knitting - , but the following way is far 
prettier. Knit the 1st row ; then do 24 rows for the leg, in 
any fancy stitch you like ; the last row *, knit 2, wool over the 
needle, take 2 together. Repeat from *. This forms holes, 
into which ribbon must afterward be run. 

Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, 
pearl 1 ; reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice 
pattern. Cast on 11 extra stitches at the end of each of the 
next two rows, making - 52 in all. Increase at the beginning of 
every row until there are 62 stitches; do 4 plain rows ; then 
decrease in the same way until you have only 52 again. Take 
off and sew up. Crochet a double scollop at the top in blue 
Andalusian, to give a little finish. 

Double Knitting. 

Cast on any number of stitches. 

Knit a plain row. 

Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2d in the usual 
manner, but put the thread twice round the needle. Then 
bring the thread forward as if you were going to pearl, only do 
not pearl, but take the stitch off, and put the wool in front of 
the stitch back to its place. Then begin again and knit a 
stitch with wool twice round the needle. 


23 


Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, 
and take off the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. 
Knit the short stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle. 

Double Knitting with Four Needles. 

Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on 
'the right side of the knitting. 

* Bring the wool forward, slip i, put the thread back, knit I, 
putting the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *. 

Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the 
needle, put the wool back to the other side, and then slip the 
long stitch. Repeat these two stitches. 

You must be very careful in changing these rows, as other¬ 
wise it joins. A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where 
the pattern begins. Of course the pattern interlaces at the ist 
stitch, but otherwise it ought to be quite separate. 

Third round—the same as ist. 

Fourth row—the same as second. 

Comforters. 

Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters. 

Put 60 stitches with needles No. 6, and Berlin worsted or any 
soft wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until 
the desired length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin 
is very warm and soft. 


2 9 


Sleeping Socks. 



The above figure shows a sock completed, but not sewn up. 
It is a plain piece of knitting, done upon the same principle as 
baby’s boot on page 27, casting on 40 stitches. 

Use white double Berlin wool, and needles No. 5. Another 
way is: 

Ankle .—Cast on 40, do 6 rows of ribbed knitting; the 
remainder, I pearl row, 1 plain row; you need not decrease 
at all. 

Foot .—Use any pattern of a baby’s boot"; the Isabel one is 
a very comfortable fit, but, of course, do not copy the fancy 
stitches. You will have to begin at 5th row, page 25, and 
allow for the slight difference in the number of your stitches; 
the diagram makes it easy. 

Any of the patterns for babies’ boots will do, but remember 
never to cast on more than 40 for the leg, as the proportions are 
different. Crochet or scollop round the top in colored single 
Berlin wool. 









3 ° 

Sleeping socks are a great comfort to all who suffer from 
cold feet. 


Gentleman's Waistcoat . 

(medium size, for a young man). 

Steel needles, No. io. % lb. dark claret-colored double Berlin 
wool. 

Cast on 60 stitches. 

First row—i plain, i pearl. Repeat. 

You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding 
row, you worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When 
you have knitted it long enough, work another side in the same 
manner, and send it to a tailor to make up. This knitting will 
not run down when cut, as the stitches can be taken up with 
ease, if carefully done. 


A nother . 

(larger or smaller size). 

As sizes vary so much, a good plan to insure a nice fit is to 
measure the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then 
for every inch allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel 
needles, No. io. 

Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches 
across, you must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in 
you had better allow 9 stitches : altogether 75 stitches. 


3i 


Ermine Mnffatee. 

I oz. white and i oz. scarlet, i skein black, i skein yellow 
Berlin wool; 4 needles, No. 17. 

Cast on 20 on two needles, and 23 on the 3d. Knit 2 inches 
in ribs of 3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit a row, pearl a 
row for 1 inch. Go on with the white and knit 2 inches, ribbed 
3 and 3. Now double back the ribbed knitting and hem it in 
a neat fold. Take a wool-needle, and with black wool make 2 
little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches of the ribbed part. 
Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to imitate ermine 
spots. Any other color may be substituted for scarlet. A 
bright blue is pretty. 

Lady’s Muffatee. 

(QUICK PATTERN). 

Needles No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, l / z oz. bright blue. 

Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3d. Plain 3, pearl 3. 
Knit 3 inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make 
a very narrow crochet edging lengthways up and down each 
rib. This has a very pretty and bright effect. 

Knitted Purse. 

One skein blue and one black of purse-twist. 

These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used ; 
the following pattern is rather a small one : 

Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. 
Second row plain. When broad enough double it and sew up, 
leaving about 3 inches open for the money to slip in. Finish 
off with steel rings and tassels. 


32 


Another Purse . 

With needles, No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, or fine 
purse-twist, cast on 144, and proceed as above; or make 1, 
knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the other 2. 

Second row—plain. Repeat. 


Lady s Knitted Woolen Vest, or Jersey. 

(beautifully warm and comfortable). 

Needles, No. 5 ; 3-thread Saxony yarn. 

These are of the greatest comfort to those who suffer from the 
cold. 

For the back, cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs 
for 140 rows. 

141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form 
the shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl 
them. You ought now to be beginning the row again, and this 
time you pearl; and now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together ; 
turn and knit back; knit a row, taking the 16th and 17th to¬ 
gether ; turn and pearl back ; knit a row, taking the 15th and 
16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on in this way, 
remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the end ol 
every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought to 
have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to 
be crossways instead of lengthways. 


33 


Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come 
to the last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last. This 
shoulder may be done in plain knitting, if preferred. 



The Fig. is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each 
counting as one rib, making 5 in all. 

For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 
125 rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make 
ribs as before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the 
left until you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 
11 ribs and cast off. Cast off the remaining stitches, and pro¬ 
ceed as before with the last 18 for the fourth shoulder-piece. 

Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 14 rows 
from the top of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must 
now join the rest with a gusset, which you form by picking up 
one stitch, knit it and turn ; in every row you must now take up 
one stitch, and rib them the same as the other part of the 
vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you have 1 stitch, the 





























34 


next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 30 rows 
are done, pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap, 
and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve de¬ 
sired. Then sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow 
border of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet 
wool or white ribbon. 


Shetland Shawl. 

This takes lb. of wool. A scarlet or violet crocheted border 
improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or not, as suits 
the taste. Bone needles, No. 7. 

Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the 
beginning and end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the 
first of the three over the other two. Repeat from *. The next 
row plain. Repeat these two rows until enough is. done, and 
cast off. 

Any fancy stitch will do ; it had better be rather a simple one. 


Pence Jug. 

Yz oz. pink and Yz oz. black Saxony would do three. 5 needles, 
No. 16. 

Cast on 12 stitches on 1 needle for the spout, 10 on each of the 
three other needles ; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 
2 pearl, except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch 
at each side of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on 
every alternate side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now 
finished, and you ought to have 31 stitches on the needles. 


35 


Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, 
where I stitch is to be plain. 

With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in i ; 
pearl 2 rounds ; knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with 
black, increasing 12 stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds 
with black ; knit 4 rounds pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 
12; there ought to be 86 now. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit. 6 
rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink. 
Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals. Pearl 
2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 
6. Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. 
Divide these by 6. Knit 1 r rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches 
in each round by knitting 2 together at the commencement of 
each division, where a star of 6 points will be found, and 6 
stitches will remain on the needles. These are to be drawn up 
and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in black, and knit 
and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches: this is for 
the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the 
top of the jug. 


A nothcr . 

(long shape). 

Saxony yarn as the preceding pattern, and needles No. 15. 

Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other needles. 
Knit 4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every 
round. Do 9 rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain 
rows. Now for the bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and 
then do three rounds in black ; now join the pink and * knit 2 


3^ 


together, make i, knit i ; repeat from *, the next round plain. 
Repeat these rows twice more, and with black increase again 

1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern from *, and 
when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing. 
Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches 
at the top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for 
three inches ; cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, 
and above that attach it to the bowl. 

A nother. 

(ON TWO NEEDLES). 

Berlin wool, and needles No. 15. 

Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright color. 1st 
row, make 1, knit 1, repeat. 2d row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 
3d row, make 1, knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make r, pearl 4, 
repeat. Continue in this way until you have 42 stitches. Pearl 
a row and join the black wool. * Bring the wool forward, knit 

2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next row. Repeat these 
2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same in 
black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1 ; repeat 
from *. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the 
neck of the jug rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit 
to the middle ; increase, knit 1 ; increase ; the rest plain. Pearl a 
row, increasing on each side of the 2 center stitches. Increase 
in this way until you have 14 for the spout; cast off in blue. 
Sew up the jug and make the handle in blue, beginning a third 
of an inch from the top ; take up 4 stitches ; pearl and knit 
alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl of the jug. 


37 


This can be knitted in Saxony yarn, and needles No, 17, but in 
that case you must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good 
size; and the neck or ribbed part must be done for 12 rows 
instead of 6. 


Easy and Handsome Pattern for an A ntimacassar, 

or Couvrette . 

In Germantown wool, lb. for each stripe. Needles No. 6. 
Scarlet, maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts. 

Cast on 14 stitches ; plain knitting until you have attained 
the required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. 
You begin by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, 
which must be very loose indeed, almost an inch in length ; 
pass the slipped stitch over. Now drop the 3d stitch and let 
it run the whole length of the knitting. Continue thus. The 
dropped stitches are allowed to run down, and they form 
a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe at top 
and bottom. 


Another . 

Germantown wool, and bone needles to match. 

Cast on 19 and rib crossways in nines. When long enough 
drop the middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe 
in the same way, and drop the middle stitch, Crochet with black 
along every colored stripe, and join to the white with maize or 
orange. Two stripes of green and one of purple look very nice. 


33 


Persian A ntimacassar. 

This is pretty, and not difficult. The cost of these couv- 
rettes is generally about the same. 

2 or 3 skeins of Germantown wool, of each color, according to 
the length required. Needles No. to. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, 
dark crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle. 

Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and take off. Now 
select any simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any 
Moorish pattern, and work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 
5 on one strip and 6 on the next, so that they do not come ex¬ 
actly in a line one with another. The pattern ought to be 
worked in black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add 
a fringe. 


Raised Plait Knitting for Carriage-Rug. 

(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME). 

Needles No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. Germantown wool. You 

must have a third needle pointed at both ends. 

Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows. 

Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl 
these 4 alternately, until 11 rows are done. An easy way of 
counting is to look at the side of the small strip, where there 
ought to be 7 large chains. When 11 rows are done you slip 
these 4 stitches on to the third needle, which you must keep on 
the right-hand side of your knitting. 


39 


Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hancl needle off the 2d needle on 
the left, leaving the 3d pointed needle hanging down over the 
right side of the knitting ; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above- 
mentioned 3d needle ; pearl 4, knit 4. 



Eighth row—plain knitting. 

Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4. 

Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 
alternately until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed 
needle, and let it hang down over the right side of the knitting. 






















































































40 


Knit 4 stitches on the right-hand needle off the left one ; then knit 
the 4 on the double-pointed needle ; knit the remainder. 

Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4. 

Twelfth row—plain knitting. 

Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; 
knit 6 plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three 
scarlet and two white, and join with Berlin. A fringe must be 
crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert 
the .crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the 
ends of the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the 
fingers. 


Baby s Bcrceaunette Cover. 

Long wooden needles, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 

4-thread fleecy. 

Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white ; continue to cast 
on alternately 7 in each color until you have 147 altogether. 
Do 7 stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat. 3d row, 7 pink 
stitches, and pass the wool in front; then go on with the white. 
Continue this knitting, and when 7 rows are done, do white over 
the pink squares, and pink over the white ; you thus make 
regular rows of squares. You must be careful always to pass 
the wool after every alternate row to the front of the knitting, 
so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side ; care must 
be taken not to pull these threads too tight in passing from 
one colored square to another. Make a fringe, and line care¬ 
fully with pink silk. 


4i 


Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and 
nearly all the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of 
pink and white. 


Knitted Quilt. 

In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs. 

Bone needles, No. 6, and 4 lbs. Germantown wool, scarlet and 
white. 

Cast on 12 stitches ; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows 
long. Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, 
in bright filoselle silk, leaving 10 rows between each pattern. 
Now knit a scarlet stripe 208 rows long. This stripe has no 
sprigs worked on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and 
join together. 


Hearth-Rug. 

This must be made in stripes and then sewn together. Cast 
on with strong twine and steel needles, No. 12, 25 stitches. Have 
ready narrow pieces of cloth, about 2% inches long and l / 2 inch 
broad. Knit one plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a 
strip of cloth between the two needles and knit a stitch; then 
turn the end of cloth up again so that both ends may come 
on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The next 
row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight. When 
1 yard and 5 inches are done, cast off. Do a second similar 
strip, and sew them together. 

Keep all the black scraps for the border, for which put on 
18, and knit strips long enough for each side. If your yarn is 
too fine the knitting will curl up. 


42 


The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound 
of scraps. It makes a pretty border to put scarlet strips at 
regular intervals. Sew a piece of sacking at the back for a 
lining. 


Loop Knitting. 

This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and 
warm for quilts, couvrettes, linings of sleeping socks, etc. 

Put on Germantown, and needles, No. 7, any number oi 
stitches. Do not slip the first stitch, but always knit it. 

First row—plain knitting. 

Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were 
going to knit a plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool 
hang straight down over the forefinger of the left hand ; wind it 
round and put it for the second time over the right needle. 
Wind the wool a second time round the finger, and for the third 
time put it round the needle; and now knit this stitch, which 
ought to have the appearance of three in one. Repeat. The 
next row plain. Do about six rows plain, and then repeat with 
the loops ; of course you must only make them on one side of 
the knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them 
in the right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red. 


Fringe. 

Berlin wool or cotton. Needles No. 14. 

Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and 
then unravel all the rest. 


43 


Woolen Fringe. 

(VERY HANDSOME). 

Have some ends ready cut, and cast on 7 stitches. 

First row—knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; 
take one of the lengths and double it, hang it on the right-hand 
needle, knit 2 stitches, bring the double ends of wool forward, 
knit 1 stitch, put the end back, and knit the last stitch. 

Second row—knit every stitch plain, taking up with the 4th 
stitch the loop of fringe wool, and being careful not to split either 
of them. Continue to the end of the row plain. 

Third row—the same as 1st. 

Fourth row—the same as 2d. * Repeat. 


Lady s Whiter Petticoat. 

This is a beautifully warm and comfortable one, and more 
durable than flannel; 15 skeins of Germantown yarn, and bone 
needles, No. 5, are required. 

Begin with scarlet for 1 inch, then 2 inches of white, then 2 
inches of scarlet; the rest all white. 

Cast on 120, and knit 23 inches plain, then rib by doing 2 
plain and 2 pearl for 24 rows. Cast off. Do another breadth; 
and for the 3d and front breadth you must, after the first 12 
rows, decrease at the beginning and end of each row about 
every two inches. If you do not like to have a gored breadth, 
do this one exactly the same as the other two. Join the breadths 
together. Knit a border as on page 48, in scarlet, and sew it to 
the petticoat. 


44 


Tzvo Round Sofa Cushions. 

The first of these patterns is a very simple one, and is both 
quick and effective. Use any two colors which contrast well. 

Double Berlin, and needles No. 5, may be used, casting on 45 
stitches. 

First row—wool forward ; slip 1, knit 1. Repeat. 

Second row — the rest of the cushion is done in brioche 
stitch ; leave the last 3 stitches unknitted, turn and go on with 
the brioche stitch. 

Fourth row—leave the last 6 unknitted and turn. 

Sixth row—leave the last 9 unknitted, and so on, 3 more 
every time you get to the end of the row. Of course, you must 
only leave the unknitted stitches at one end of the knitting. 

When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next 
shade and knit the whole row. The next row like the 2d. 

This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. When 
large enough sew it up and do a second in the same way. Make 
a round pillow lined with feathers, and put between the knitting, 
which must be sewn together like a silk pincushion. Draw in 
the center, which maybe finished off with an ornamental button ; 
sew a silk cord round the edge. 


Another .—You will require 3 skeins yellow, 2 white, 3 scarlet, 
3 purple, 3 green, 6 gray, of double Berlin wool. Needles, No. 5. 
Cast on 64 stitches with yellow. 

First row—wool forward; slip 1, knit 1. 


45 


Second row—Join the white. The remainder is all brioche 
stitch ; do 2 rows, then 2 yellow rows. 

Join the gray; knit 18 brioche (this is really 54 stitches re¬ 
member), leaving 14 on the other unknitted. Turn back and 
knit 4 brioche; turn again and knit 5 brioche ; turn and knit 6. 
Continue taking 3 more stitches every time you turn, until you 
come to the end of your needles. Then do another yellow and 
white stripe. 

Join the scarlet, and work as before. There have to be 18 
sections altogether, a gray one separating each bright-colored 
one. 


For a Common Quilt. 

Cast on with No. 6 German knitting cotton 2 stitches, use 
needles about No. 14, and increase every row. Do 6 rows of 
plain and 6 of pearl, so as to make lengthway ribs. When half 
a square is done decrease at the beginning of every row. When 
a sufficient number of squares are finished, join together with a 
square piece of calico between each knitted one. Thus : take a 
piece of calico, turn down the raw edges, double it to the 
size of the knitted square, and tack the two edges together. 
Then sew the knitting and the calico together, as if you were 
doing patchwork. The raw edges of the calico must, of course, 
be turned inwards, meeting each other so as not to be seen even 
on the wrong side of the quilt. This is a quick and neat quilt, 
but is not so pretty as the other patterns. 


46 


Counterpane.—Maltese Pattern. 

German knitting-cotton No. 6, and needles No. 16. 

This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it 
must be knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the 
cotton twice round the little finger, and you will thus be enabled 
to draw the stitches quite tight. 

When your squares are done, sew them together at the 
plain part, at the beginning, where the incrcasings were made. 
They ought to make a perfect Maltese cross. Cast on i stitch 
and increase every row. Knit until you have 27 stitches on 
your needle. This completes the first division. 

Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest. 

Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder. 

Thirtieth row — make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the 
needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat from * 

Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest. 

Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest. 

Do the 33d and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2d 
division is done. 

Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. 

Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *. 
Knit the last stitch. 

Thirty seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat 
from *. 

Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat 
from *. 

Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from * 


47 


Fortieth row—make i, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. 
Pearl the last stitch. 

Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest. 

Forty-second row—make I, pearl the rest. 

Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 to¬ 
gether, knit the rest. 

Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl. 

Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the 
needle. Repeat alternately. 

Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest. 

Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest. 

Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl. 

Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth. 

Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 
2 pearl according to the pattern ; always decreasing at the 
beginning. In the last row of this division you knit every 
stitch. You ought to have 27 stitches, and the rest of the 
square is plain knitting. 

It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue 
ribbon round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, 
and bring it out more clearly. 


Canadian Cloud . 

Wooden needles, No. 1 ; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scailet 
Shetland wool. 

Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 
2j2 yards. Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at 
the two sides. Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up 


4 8 


the two ends and finish off with a large tassel, made in the fol¬ 
lowing way:—Double a skein of white wool twice, then tie it 
round very tightly with strong wool about two inches from the 
end ; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and tassel together 
with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the cloud 
prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel. 


Rose-bud Pattern Border. 

Needles No. 13 and coarse cotton. 

Cast on 21 stitches. 

First row—-knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit I, 
put the cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slipped stitch over, pearl, take 2 together, knit I, pearl 1, knit I, 
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 
1, put cotton over, knit the last stitch. 

Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain ; 2 
pearl, 1 plain ; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl, knit the last. 

Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain ; put 
the cotton over the needle, 1 plain ; put cotton over, slip 1, knit 
1, pass the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton 
over, 1 plain, cotton over, the last plain. 

Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl, plain, pearl, 
plain, pearl 5, knit 2, pearl, knit the last. 

Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, 
cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 


49 


i, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, 
knit 3, put cotton over, knit the last. 

Sixth rovv—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 
I, knit the last. 

Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, perrl 2, knit 1, cotton over, 
knit 5, cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, 
put cotton over the needle, knit 5, cotton over, knit the last. 

Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last 
plain. 

Repeat from the 1st row again. 

This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacas¬ 
sars, or baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in 
stripes of plain knitting, in wool. 


Counterpane Border. 

German knitting-cotton and needles No. 15. Cast on 17 
stitches for every scollop, and knit a plain row. 

First row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, 
knit 1, thread forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *. 
Second row—pearl. 

Third row—like the first. 

Fourth row—pearl. 

Fifth row—like the first. 

Sixth row—plain knitting. 

Seventh row—pearl. 

Eighth row—plain knitting. 

Begin again from the first row. 


5° 


Arrozv Pattern in Stripes . 

(VERY EASY). 

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according 1 to the 
width you require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the 
needle, and knit 6 plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the 
right-hand needle. Knit 2 together, the rest plain. Every 
row alike. 


Fancy Stitches—Cable Knitting. 

Always cast on two stitches over, so as to knit the first 
and last stitch plain. 

This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or 
stockings in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, etc., in coarser. 

It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you 
require for the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain. 

Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
the slipped stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round 
the needle, knit 4. Repeat to the end of the row. 

Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat. 

Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, 
pass the slipped stitch over, pearl 1. Now take the next 2 
stitches on a .third needle, and keep them on the right side of 
your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit off the 2 
on the third needle. 


5* 


Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat. 

Begin again from the 2d row. 

If you desire your cable broader, you need only add on a few 
more stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you 
would have to slip 4 on to the third needle. 


Pretty Pattern , which forms a deep Scollop .—Cast on 12 for 
each pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times. 

Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread 
forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, 
thread forward; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 
1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. 

Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately. 


Net Patter ?!.—Any number of stitches which can be divided 
by 3. Slip 1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat. 


Brioche Knitting. 

Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36, according 
to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, slip 1 as 
though you were going to pearl, knit 2 together. Repeat from *. 
Every row is alike. 


52 


Lattice Pattern . 

(SEE FRONTISPIECE). 

This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or 
more colors, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter 
cast on in white Germantown wool, no stitches on long wooden 
needles, No. 6. If, when finished, you wish it larger, put a 
border in rosebud pattern. For an antimacassar cast on i stitch 
with fleecy wool and coarse bone needles. Plain knitting, in¬ 
creasing at the commencement of every row, until you have 22. 
(This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches at 
the beginning and end of every row to form a border; these 
must always be knitted plain. There must be an even number 
of stitches, 22, 28, 34, according to the width required). 

First row—knit the 22 stitches plain. 

Second row—knit 2 for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool 
three times round the needle. Repeat from *. 

Third row—knit 2 for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches 
and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter 
run off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches 
plainly. Repeat from *. 

This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as 
it merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, 
and then knitting these six afterward. 

Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2d row. 

When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match 
the commencement, and finish off the points with tassels. 

The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different 


S 3 


pattern, only you must remember to make the points, by begin¬ 
ning with one stitch and then increasing up to the requisite 
number, decreasing in the same manner at the end. 


Fancy Stitches. 

All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast 
on two extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the begin¬ 
ning and end of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. 
Always work one or two rows plain for a foundation. 

Pearl Pattern .—Cast on an even number of stitches. Jst 
row—pearl i, slip I. Repeat. 

Third row—slip i, pearl i. Repeat. 

Go back to the ist row. 

Rain Pattern .—14 stitches are required for each pattern, 
ist row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, 
pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat. 

This makes a scollop. 

Diamond Pattern .—6 stitches for each pattern, ist row— 
knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped 
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread forward. Repeat. 

Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, 
pass slipped over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat. 



54 


Fifth row—knit i, knit 2 together, thread forward ; knit i, 
thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped over. 

Seventh row—knit 2 together. * Thread forward, knit 3, 
thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat 
from *. End by knitting 1. Then go back to the 1st row. 

Gate Pattern .—Cast on 10 for each pattern and two over, 
slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate 
row is 5 plain, 5 pearl. 

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, 
knit 3, pearl 5. 

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped 
over, knit 2, pearl 5. 

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped 
over, knit 1, pearl 5. 

Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass 
slipped over, pearl 5. 

Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward. 

Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain. 

Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread for-* 
ward, knit 1. 

Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread for¬ 
ward, knit 2. 

Fifteenth row —pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, 
knit 3. 

Leaf Patter71 .—7 stitches for each pattern. 

First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. 
Repeat. 

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass 


55 

the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit i, bring the thread for¬ 
ward. Repeat. 

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped 
over, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit i. Repeat. 

Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. 
Repeat. 

Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, 
thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. 

Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread 
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. 

The next row pearled. Recommence from first row. 

Small Honeycomb. —Cast on 6 for each pattern. 

First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle 
twice, pearl 2 together. Repeat. 

Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. 
Repeat. 

Bean Patter71. —Cast on 8 for each. 

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped 
over. Repeat. 

Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit I, pass the slipped 
over, knit 6. Repeat. 

Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks. —5 stitches for each 
pattern. 

First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 to¬ 
gether, thread over. Repeat. 

Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat. 

Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat. 

Fourth row—like the second. 


Mignon Pattern .—First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, 
knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat. • 

Second row—pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat 
these rows alternately. This requires 4 stitches for each pattern. 

Telegraph Pattern .—Cast on 6 for each pattern. 

First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, 
thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. 

Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately. 

Alice Pattern.—'Cast on 8 for each pattern. 

First row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread 
forward, slip 1, knit I, pass the slipped over, knit 2, Repeat. 
Every other row is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, 
pearl 2. 

Third row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread 
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat. 

Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread 
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat. 

By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration 
can be made by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the 
position of knitted, pearled, and slipped stitches, and they will 
doubtless be able to invent many more equally pretty patterns 
for themselves. 

In adapting these patterns for four needles, knit the alternate 
rows plain, instead of pearling them. 


57 


High Bodice . 

This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins 
scarlet merino yarn, and needles No. 5, or Shetland wool, and 
needles No. 7. 

Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows. 

Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round 
the needle), knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, 
knit 16. 

Fourteenth row—plain knitting. 

Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 
1, knit 30, make 1, knit 17. 

Sixteenth row—plain knitting. 

Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, 
make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 18. 

Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have 
done 30 rows with holes and 30 alternate plain rows. 

Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest 
still on the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards 
on those 60 for 32 rows. 

Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain. 

Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the 
end of this row by taking 2-together. 

Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows ; you must have 
39 stitches on your needle. Cast off; this part is for the 
shoulder. 

Cast off 16 stitches under the arm. 

For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knit¬ 
ting ; then 38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end of 


58 


each row. Now cast off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 
under the other arm. Now take the remaining 60 stitches for 
the second front, and do 32 rows as on the other side. Reduce 
for the neck in the same manner, by casting off 5 at the 32d 
row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate row for 
32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches. 

Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and 
sleeves (1 treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain 
round the former. 

If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs 
of 3 and 3 the desired length. 

The following diagram will render the explanations easier: 











59 


A good plan to prevent the front part from stretching too 
much is, at every ioth row to leave the last io stitches before the 
end unknitted. 

This pattern is for an ordinary figure, but after one trial the 
knitter will find it can be altered to any size. 


Child's Gaiter . 

Three needles, No. n or 12, and 2 oz. brown Berlin wool. 

Cast on 60 (for a very small child, 54 will do), knit 3, pearl 3, 
for 24 rows. Now do plain knitting for 12 rows, then decrease 
at the beginning and end of the row. Continue plain knitting, 
but you must decrease every five rows. When six decreasings 
are done, go on knitting until 78 rows are done. 

Seventy-ninth row—take the center 18 stitches for the instep 
on a third needle and knit backwards and forwards, decreasing 
at the beginning and end of every third row. When 18 rows 
are done cast off. 

Sew up the leg, and take up the rest of the stitches for the 
heel. Do 10 rows, decreasing at the beginning of every row. 
Cast off. Add a leather strap. 


Knee-cap. 

These are very comfortable for people who are at all rheu¬ 
matic. Use needles No. 12, and Berlin wool. 

Cast on 74 stitches, and do 24 ribbed rows. Knit a row, 
pearl a row ; knit 2 rows, pearl a row. 


6o 


Thirtieth row—knit 40; turn back and knit 9 (always slip the 
first of these turned stitches). Turn again ; knit the last 9 and 
3 more; turn, knit 15; turn, knit 18. Continue in this way 
until you have knitted 57 stitches; then turn and knit to the end 
of the needle. Knit 30 plain rows. 

Sixty-second row—knit 46; turn and knit 10; turn and knit 
13; and so on, 3 more every time, until you come to within 10 
of the end; then turn and knit to the end of the row. Then do 
a plain row, a pearl row, 2 plain rows, 1 pearl row. Rib for 24 
rows. Cast off, and sew the ends together. 

Some people consider them better when quite plain, without 
either increasing or decreasing. 


Babies Hoods . 

Needles, No. 9, and Berlin, or any other soft wool. 

Cast on 60, and do 1 plain row. Then do Alice pattern, 
page 56, for 5 rows ; then 6 rows of plain knitting. Do the rest 
in any fancy stitch. When the knitting is 4 inches deep do 2 
plain rows, 1 pearled, and cast off. 

Cast on 22 stitches for the crown, do 1 plain row. 

Second row—knit 1, thread over, take 2 together. Repeat; 
6 more plain rows, and then any fancy stitch. When 3 inches 
are done knit a row, decreasing at the beginning and end of 
the row. Pearl the next, decreasing in the same way. Do five 
more rows in this manner and cast off. Now sew the crown 
and head parts together, gathering the fullness at the top, and 
not at the sides. 

Take up 74 stitches for the curtain, or neck part, and do 3 


61 


rows of alternate knitting and pearling; let the plain part come 
on the right side. 

In the second row increase after every 2 stitches, so as to 
have about no altogether. When you have done 3 rows do 
any open pattern for 2 inches, and cast off. Edge the hood all 
round with a simple crochet edging in pink wool, and then 
ribbon round the neck. 

Line with Persian silk, and put a border of narrow swans- 
down. These hoods are very useful in gray wool for poor people, 
with a border of loop knitting. 

Another .—I skein white and I pink Shetland wool. Needles 
No. 10. 

Cast on 300 stitches in white wool, and knit until the work 
makes a square ; double the work to make a half handkerchief, 
and make the center a box-plait, rolling back a small fold all 
the way round the face. 

Make sufficient lace in pink to go all round the edge, both of 
front and curtain, which is formed by the three ends of the half 
square. Run a pink ribbon about four inches from the edge, to 
go round the neck. Put a bow of ribbon at the back, and a 
bow at the top, on the box-plait. 

Another Pattern. — Cast on 324 stitches, with white Shet¬ 
land wool. 

First row—plain. 

Second row—knit 1 ; wool forward ; knit 2 together. Re¬ 
peat these rows alternately, decreasing at the beginning of every 
row until all are worked off. 

Line this piece of knitting with pale blue or rose-colored 


62 


silk; either turn back the straight side of the handkerchief to 
form a fold, going round the face, or net a border thus: fill the 
steel netting-needle with white wool, doubled about 8 times, and 
work 3 stitches into every hole all the way down the part near 
the face. Work some lace to match the lining, sufficient to go 
round the hood at the curtain ; and a second strip to go round 
the front part, at the back of the netted quilting. Run a ribbon 
round the face, under the lace ; run a ribbon also round the 
neck, making a fold in the knitting at the back. If preferred 
you can put a fringe instead of lace round the curtain. 

Both these hoods are pretty and simple. 


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